October 7, 2023. Uganda Museum, Kampala. After a long week of ailment and medication, I joined Avian Conservation Uganda Society for yet another birding excursion to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in the Southwestern part of Uganda on the request of Susan Akankunda who was my sponsor. I arrived at the Uganda Museum approximately ten minutes to the hour of seven as was prescribed to be our set off time. Thrilled from my excitement of the journey ahead and possible opportunity to get an up and close encounter with the silverback gorilla, my mind wondered to only be interrupted by a counter terrorism (CT) police officer who curiously inquired why I was alone and where was I heading to with my camping tent, a sleeping bag and luggage bag. I with ease told him I was waiting for my colleagues so that we may set off to Western Uganda for a birding excursion. Without further ado, he directed me at the Museum facility where Okia Ronald a member of ACUS and his friend were sitting as we await for a shuttle to come pick us up.
Steve, the Kaynela Tours and Travel driver arrived 30 minutes past the hour of seven (7), 20 minutes later after Joshua Rwakamana; the General Secretary of ACUS had arrived. Nevertheless, we set off for Mbarara that would be our first stop over and a pick up point for other 3 members who were joining in from Lake Mburo National Park and staffs of Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA). We had a meal, I ordered for beans, ugali, rice and matooke as it was within my budget while the rest ordered for beef stew. Here’s where the fun began, with a set of music being played as all the sojourners singing and wiggling on their sits. The enthusiasm and optimism of fellow sojourners buoyed me, for that I sensed amidst the terrifying scenes around the hills that we roamed about from one valley to hills and endless corners.
We were welcomed warmly by Muhwezi Jerome who was accompanied by Christian a Columbian national specialized in primates (primatologist) who took us to our place of residence in one of the local lodges in Rubuguri trading centre. So that evening after having dinner, we drove to a local kafunda bar where we danced for several hours before going to bed after the long days journey of almost 12hours from Kampala.
What’s the origin of Bwindi?
The name Bwindi is derived from the Runyakitara word Mubwindi and means “a place full of darkness“. This name comes from the extensive stands of bamboo interspersed amongst the larger forest hardwoods. The forest also sits at the edge of the western arm of the Great Rift Valley, a few kilometers from the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) border and about 25 kilometres north of the Virunga Mountains. The forest is one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth with half of the world’s population of the highly endangered mountain gorillas living within its borders. The forest has been recognized by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization as a World Heritage Site for its biological significance.
At present the forest is believed to contain 120 mammals species, 348 bird species, 220 butterfly species and 27 frog species among which are the forest elephants and yellow-backed duikers. While mountain gorillas are the most notable of the forest’s primates, other residents include chimpanzees, blue monkeys, l’Hoest’s monkeys, red-tailed monkeys, vervet monkeys and black-and-white colobus monkeys.
I woke up at 6am showered and prepared for the days exercise, before we could drive to Rushaga for the birding exercise a breakfast was ordered from a local restaurant closest to our lodge. We had eggs and tea while some of the birders topped up with bananas on the side.
We reached Rushaga around 7:30 and were briefed by the park’s in charge before we could embark into birding. Equiped with our pair of binoculars and field guide books we were able to see and document over 40 species of birds. My first sighting was the Pin-tailed whydah, Pied crow, Equatorial akalat, Red-faced woodland warbler, Strange weaver, Fine-banded woodpecker, Blue-headed sunbird during our over 4 hours birding exercise within the protected area. With great enthusiasm, each of us introduced themselves and their areas of interest as we took a short break.
Of course as a norm I talked about myself with a background in Environmental Science however with keen interest in Reptiles especially the serpents. I also further reiterated that I was interested into birding while as an internee with NatureUganda close to 10 years ago. Our first birding exercise ended at around 1pm, we had an hour rest as the Batwa Community were mobilised for a community engagement.
Who are the Batwas?
The Batwas are a group of indigenous African pygmy tribe who were the inhabitants of the forest, hunters-gatherers before the advent of agriculture. They use to live in the Bwindi Impenetrable and Mgahinga National parks that borders the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Rwanda living mainly in areas bordering other Bantu Tribes. When Bwindi became a National Park in 1992, the Batwas were forcefully evicted from the park to protect the endangered mountain gorillas without any compensation as a result they became conservation refugees in unforested environment unfamiliar to them. They were subjected to discrimination because of their “primitive” lifestyles.
As time would have it, during the engagements with ACUS to access their avian knowledge, the Twa leaders were concerned more by the birds that consume their plants in the garden. Hadija Atuhaire one of the sojourners and a game ranger with the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) highlighted how they can co-exist with the birds sharing insightful examples that the communities appreciated.
Soon after we were done with the community engagements, we were destined for a second bird watching exercise that didn’t happen because we were all exhausted and hungry. A decision was made that we should drive back to Rubuguri to freshen up and a have our late lunch. So I went to the lodge, secured my kits and joined Christian and Okia for an evening walk around Rubuguri as we exchanged ideas and expertise correlating with our observations of the communities verse wildlife conservation.
That evening we all went out, partied till late and got back to the lodge to wake and set back to Kampala eventually our excursion came to an end. I hope someday soon I will be able to get back to track the gorillas though the terrains and roads around the slopes of the Kisoro hills gave me goosebumps, nevertheless I won’t cowardice because it is not my ways. Looking forward to sharing with you more endless and thrilling adventures!
Ismail Hassan 
Well done guys keep the love for the birds and let keep conserving
LikeLike
Thank you Allan for reading through.
LikeLike